There's a moment at Hunting Island State Park as you're biking along the Lagoon Trail—ocean breezes and intoxicating beach vistas playing peekaboo to your left—when the sandy path turns inland and a sign points to Diamondback Rattlesnake Trail. A good idea? Yes.
"Yes," it turns out, sums up the best way to experience Beaufort, South Carolina, and its environs, including Hunting Island. Yes, the path less taken is an excellent idea, as is the sweet tea at Blackstone's Cafe. Spending hours strolling through The Old Point and gazing at historic homes and even older live oaks offers endless enchantment. But with my eyes peeled for rattlers, I was (yes) relieved that the only serpentine thing I discovered was more of the winding trail along old dune ridge lines through a primordial wonderland.
The trail affirms why Hunting Island, a breathtaking 25-minute drive from Beaufort, is South Carolina's most popular state park. With a dozen similar paths and 5 miles of pristine beach, this place leads you back eons in time through an untouched maritime forest with towering pines and ospreys soaring overhead as well as magnolias and saw palmettos tangled with yaupon hollies and wax myrtles in the dense understory. Here you breathe deeper and look more closely. Life slows down, and a sense of awe percolates up.
Take In The Scenery At Waterfront Park
Take a seat on one of the bench swings at Beaufort's Waterfront Park. Wide and welcoming, they move back and forth in a rhythmic lullaby. You can't help relaxing, especially if you happen to catch a sunset or tune into the soft lapping of the Beaufort River against the floating dock, hearing the jingling clink of pulleys against sailboat masts—a mariner's wind chime.
PHOTO: Peter Frank Edwards A slice of the sweet life from Beaufort’s upscale Saltus River Grill. PHOTO: Peter Frank Edwards
Waterfront Park showcases the smart civic planning that makes Beaufort such a delight: The town's best vistas are protected and preserved. There are thoughtful amenities (parking, public bathrooms, an amphitheater, picnic tables, and plenty of green lawn for kids and dogs to play on). Plus it's all conveniently adjacent to an enticing array of restaurants, coffee shops, and stores along Bay Street. What better nightcap than to sit and swing a spell after enjoying grilled scallops or top-notch sushi at Saltus River Grill?
Appreciate Beaufort's Subdued Beauty
Beaufort is subdued in the best possible way. She has the same deep history and stunning architecture that her nearby sisters, Charleston and Savannah, are celebrated for, but she's fine staying slightly out of the limelight. Wise and mature, Beaufort wears her age like the badge of honor it is. Her Lowcountry aura feels elemental, with more patina and less pomp. Along Short Street at the edge of The Old Point, moss-heaped limbs cradle historic mansions. Beaufort's treescape shouts of grandeur in whatever language oaks speak. Gardens and yards aren't so much manicured as they are magical. It's easy to see why Hollywood frequently comes calling (a stairwell at The Beaufort Inn features posters from major motion pictures filmed here). Longtime resident Pat Conroy was so smitten that he wrote, "When I came to Beaufort I had struck upon a land so beautiful I had to hunt for other words."
Learn About Beaufort's History
Not far from Short Street, the First African Baptist Church, a Gothic Revival gem built by freedmen in 1865, bears witness to Beaufort's African American, Gullah, and Reconstruction-era history. "Robert Smalls was a member here. This document notes his Sunday school attendance and that he put a few cents in the offering plate," says the Rev. Alexander McBride, a jovial former marine and the church's pastor of almost 20 years, pointing to framed, yellowing pages hanging behind the sanctuary. A statue of Smalls, an enslaved crewman who heroically commandeered a Confederate ship and later served as a U.S. Congressman, is less than a mile away at Tabernacle Baptist Church, where a monument to Harriet Tubman is also planned.
Both churches are worthy stops, along with the Penn Center, the first Southern school for formerly enslaved people, across the bridge on St. Helena Island. Each place gives a deeper insight into the region's vibrant and enduring African American and Gullah Geechee culture.
Providing an overview of Beaufort's past, Capt. Henry Brandt of Coastal Expeditions offers a boat tour that cruises through the area's Native American, Spanish, and French history; Union occupation; and a view of Camp Saxton's tabby ruins, where the Emancipation Proclamation was first read in South Carolina—all interspersed with musings on estuary ecosystems and the fecund marvels of pluff mud.
"You don't fully experience Beaufort until you see it from the water," Brandt claims. After watching dolphins curl and glide from the boat's bow and admiring the town's steeples rising in the background, I absolutely believe him.
tabernacle1863.org; 901 Craven Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29901penncenter.com; 16 Penn Center Circle East, St. Helena Island, South Carolina 29920coastalexpeditions.com
Where To Stay
Anchorage 1770Boutique hotel in an 18th-century mansion with fine dining at the Ribaut Social Club anchorage1770.com; 1103 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
The Beaufort InnHistoric main inn plus several cottages clustered around a courtyardbeaufortinn.com; 809 Port Republic St, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Rhett House InnHistoric Greek revival mansion that's been a favorite of movie starsrhetthouseinn.com; 1009 Craven St, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
What To Eat And Drink
Blackstone's CaféClassic diner-like optionsblackstonescafe.com; 205 Scott Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Red Rooster CafeExtensive breakfast menu, whether you like it country, continental, Lowcountry, or Tex Mexfacebook.com; 2045 Boundary Street, Beaufort, South Carolina, 29901
Lowcountry Produce KitchenLocally sourced salads and sandwiches and a legendary tomato pielowcountryproduce.com; 302 Carteret St, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Chapman's GrocerGrab-and-go items plus beer, wine, and snacksinstagram.com/chapmans_grocer_beaufort; 208 West St, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
PlumsWaterfront dining featuring soups, salads, and sandwichesplumsrestaurant.com; 904 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Saltus River GrillFine dining with fresh local seafood, Southern fare, steaks, sushi, and a well-curated wine list saltusrivergrill.com; 802 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Old Bull TavernGastropub featuring a lively bar scene anda lamb shank that does not disappointoldbulltavern.com; 205 West Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Breakwater Restaurant and BarSeafood, steaks, and seasonal dishes with Southern flairwww.breakwatersc.com; 203 Carteret Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Paninis on the WaterfrontStone-baked pizzas, paninis, seafood, and pastaswww.paninisonthewaterfront.com; 926 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Where To Shop
Cabana22Coastal-chic boutiquecabana22.com; 819 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
The Chocolate TreeConfections such as fudge, truffles, and peanut brittlefacebook.com; 507 Carteret Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
The Beaufort Candy ShopClassic candies and sweet treats of every kindfacebook.com; 103 West Street Extension, Beaufort, South Carolina 29906
Lisa Rivers Fine ArtGullah-inspired art, prints, and giftswww.lisariversart.com; 917c Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Cassandra Gillens Art / Gullah Art in De WoodsPaintings, posters, and giftswww.cassandragillensarts.com; 711 Bladen Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29906
Good AuraSustainable clothing and jewelry boutiqueshopgoodaura.com; 221 West Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
Monkey's UncleToys, fun, and games for children of all ageswww.monkeysuncletoys.com; 909 Bay Street, Beaufort, South Carolina 29902
What To Do
Hunting Island; southcarolinaparks.comSt. Phillips Island; southcarolinaparks.comPat Conroy Literary Center; patconroyliterarycenter.orgCoastal Expeditions; coastalexpeditions.comReconstruction Era National Historic Park; nps.gov/reerSpanish Moss Trail; spanishmosstrail.comCraven Street en route to The Old Point to explore historic neighborhoods